Thailand
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Overview
Thailand has something for everyone.
There's history and culture in the form of Buddhist temples old and new, art, traditional dancing and prehistoric caves where people lived thousands of years ago.
The more adventurous can enjoy the treks to the hill villages and live life as they have done for hundreds of years.
Foodies will be tempted by the huge array of dishes available some of which might even be hot and spicy enough for my Dad! However, even for those with strong stomachs the deep fried bugs are likely to prove a bridge too far.
To chill out, head to one of the many paradise islands and soak up the sun and atmosphere. My personal favourite has to be Phi Phi because it's sooooooo beautiful.
If our visas hadn’t expired, we could well have still been there. One of these days, I'd love to come back to see the things we missed.
18 January
We're now on Koh Lanta, which isn't as breathtaking beautiful as Phi Phi, but it's still very pretty, despite being incredibly windy at the moment.
We've been on a motorbike adventure today – completely lost ,wound up on the wrong side of the island, came down a massive hill to find the brakes didn't work, found the right road eventually (although calling it road is pushing it a bit as it was no more thab a bumpy dirt track), then when we finally reached a flat bit, I managed to pull a wheely and we came off. No serious damage though - a couple of minor bruises and broken nails, but fortunately no real casualties.
The food is a
bit strange – deep fried everything on plain rice, or lovely noodles.
But the amazing thing is just how cheap it is! Last night, I had squid stuffed
with minced pork in a spring onion soup - sounds pretty gross, I know, but it
was delicious (And it only cost one pound!)
14 January
We are still in Ko Phi Phi
A brief update as internet is pricey here as it's three baht a minute instead of the 15 or 20 an hour elsewhere.
Ko Phi Phi is gorgeous. I think it's where they filmed the Beach. The sand is soft and white, and the sea is the most incredible, picture perfect blue/green that you see in the postcards. There are fish everywhere and they come right up so you can see them without needing a snorkel and face mask
Nevertheless we're going to hire equipment tomorrow and go swimming with some sharks. They are said to be quite friendly.
Yesterday we rented a canoe and went across the bay, which is very pretty. Kept an eye out for windsurfers but thre was not enough wind.
As Catherine is feeling better, we had a delayed New Year’s Eve party last night spending a lavish £10 each on cocktails, and dinner with wine. To finish off, we had beers on the beach under the stars around a campfire thing!
Probably staying
around for a few more days, then we're heading to another paradise island -
Ko Lanta, but more of that when we get there.
11 January
Both of us are now fit and well again.
We're just back from a couple of days in Khao Sok national park, which was absolutely beautiful. Limestone mountains, and crystal clear waters. Perfect!
Tomorrow morning we're heading off to Ko Phi Phi which, I think, is where they filmed The Beach.
8 January
We've been on the move today. Now in Phuket - one gorgeous beach after another. Phuket is the largest island in Thailand, but as it's joined to the mainland by a huge bridge it’s barely an island at all.
We're not staying on the beach in Phuket cos that would have been just a bit too tacky as it is reported to be a bit like Ibiza not to mention expensive. Tomorrow we're heading over to Kata beach for some snorkelling.
The following day, we're headed back to the mainland, and on to Koh Sok national park for a couple of days.
Plans after that are bit hazy, but we need to be in Malaysia by 28 January before our Thai visas expire.
7 January
Yes – Krabi is another beautiful beach and for a change we're doing nothing more strenuous than lying on it all day.
May be going to Phuket for a day trip tomorrow or the next day as it is a must see resort
5 January
The good news is that Catherine is up and about today and seems to be feeling much better.
This evening we are heading south to the beaches of Krabi. We will be leaving about 17:00 today and arriving 06:30 tomorrow.
In preparation, we have checked out of our hotel, bought a couple of books, had bikini lines waxed and I had my first Thai haircut – it cost all of a pound – all the bits that were going ginger in the sun have been cut and I’m back to my natural and surprisingly dark colour
Before getting the taxi to the station we're about to wander back down Khao San road to see if the are any bargains and then maybe we'll go for a Thai massage.
3 January
Catherine feeling bit better, but exhausted and nauseous so I've checked us in for two nights and sent her to bed and she's not getting out of bed till she feels better. She can be stubborn, but I can be stubborner. (that's why I'm emailing again today -she's sleeping now, bless her).
Earlier - Plans to go South have been postponed until Catherine improves.
2 January
We're just killing time in Bangkok, waiting for our train this evening.
We've changed our first flights. After going south for a while, our plan is to go to Malaysia by the end of January and then on to Indonesia by the end of February.
We will be monitoring the Foreign Office advice on Indonesia and Bali but people we have met say now is a good time to visit as it is relatively quiet and very cheap in the absence of tourists.
30 December
We're now back
"home" in Thailand - on Ko
Chang, where I imagine we'll be staying for New
Year.
The return journey was much better – rather than face another horrendous bus trip we took a boat sitting on the roof watching the world pass by. It was very noisy, but a great improvement on the bus trip. Of course, we had to get a minibus to the border crossing. Personally, I don't believe the driver could drive because he lurched up and down all the hills as we bounced around in the back - but at least the roads were better. Then there was another minibus to take us to Trat, where we took another boat over to Ko Chang. All in all it was a very long day but quite fun.
We're staying in a little bamboo hut with an outside toilet and shower, but it's really friendly and at £1.50 per day, I'm not complaining.
Our biggest problem is deciding what to do for New Year's Eve - at the moment the choice is going to a remote island for a BBQ and campfire with the people with whom we are staying or just chilling out at a beach side bar and contemplating the sea and the meaning of life.
Since we got to the island we have been busy lazing on the beach.
Catherine has not been feeling well. She was tested for malaria but fortunately it is just a flu. So we haven't tried anything more strenuous than lazing on the beach.
If she's up to it later, we might wander up to one of the waterfalls in the rainforest in the middle of this island while I try not to think about the 42 species of snakes that are here.
16 December
Gone to Cambodia
On our return from Cambodia, we are treating ourselves to a few days on the beach at Ko Samet or Ko Chang
Picking up Cambodian visas tonight then another early morning start tomorrow for the 11 hour bus ride to Cambodia - it is only about 3 quid and we couldn't justify paying a hundred and something to fly. Can't wait! .
Early morning (05:30) start today to see the floating market at Nakhon Pathom. Not much there apart from the floating market, but that was pretty cool. Food available from vendors who had gas canisters and woks in their boats. and would cook stuff and sell to anyone whose boat came close. Plenty of fruit and veg, clothes and tourist tat, you name it!
We’ve been out West to Kanchanaburi to see Death Railway and the bridge over the river Kwai built by the Japanese using POW and local slave labour. The cemetery for the POWs is beautifully maintained but strangely enough there was no cemetery for the hundred and fifty thousand Thai, Malay and Burmese labourers who also died.
10 December
Today, we've been to Phanom Rung, an Angkor ruin built in the 10-11th centuries with an amazing view over Cambodia. Flat as flat could be and full of paddy fields (Educational note - Thailand is the world’s largest exporter of rice)
The bus, which dropped us in the middle of nowhere again and rather than walk as we did last time without really knowing where were going or how far it was, we got motorbikes - was way cool!
Returning to Bangkok. We'll probably be around there for a few days while the visas for Cambodia come through, but we might venture out
7 December
Now we're in Medakhan, only a stopping point on our way to Ubon Ratchasima - otherwise we'd have been traveling all day again.
Then we're making our way slowly back to Bangkok, so we can arrange visas for Cambodia, cos we've decided we'd like to see Angkor Wat and the killing fields
6 December
Udon Thani to visit the caves and temples of a people who'd lived there about 2-3 thousand years ago, which was pretty impressive and made me feel very small and insignificant to see something like that that had survived so long. It was quite a trek to get there - we walked to the bus station and then the bus dropped us 5km from where we going, so we had to walk it in the midday heat. It was well worth it and luckily, we managed to get a lift back to town with a family. The conversation was a bit stilted as they didn't speak much English, and my Thai is limited to hello and thank you (It's a very difficult language to learn - all tonal, and slight changes in tone can utterly change the meaning)
5 December
Yesterday Bussed over to Nakhon Phenom not much there except for the view of Laos over the Mekong River, the mountainous backdrop looked fantastic!
1 December
Back in Chang Mai after three days in the mountains.
My legs are killing me after so much exertion but it was FANTASTIC!
The first days trek was pretty steep and tough terrain. A bit of a nightmare for someone as unfit as I am.
We stayed in a Hmong village - Hmong are one of the seven or eight hill tribes in Thailand. Amazing to see how some people still live - with none of the things we take so for granted.
One of the girls on the tour (god only knows what she was doing there!) was surprised there was no hot water in the shower, which was in fact a hose pipe in the toilet
Day two - not so steep but we walked for six hours! Went part the way on an elephant - they were so cute!
That night we stayed in a Karen village more sophisticated and the people were friendlier so we all sat around the campfire chatting. Had my first ever bath in a river because there was no water left for the "shower".
Day three – not much walking as we went on a bamboo raft- which required keeping your balance for an hour and a half to avoid falling in.
Too hot and tired to move on, so we booked back into our guest house and have put all our clothes in the laundry before heading back to Phitsanulok then onto North Eastern Thailand which is less touristy.
Caved in and going for pizza tonight. Still haven't tried the snake.
26 November
In Chang Mai - up north in the hills, and the scenery on the way was amazing -clouds reaching the trees and everything
We are off the day after tomorrow for two nights staying with local hill tribes, elephants rides and bamboo rafting
Will be sending photos and longer update soon
24 November
We're now in the original capitol of Thailand, Sukothai which survived only about 100 years before it was destroyed by the Burmese
We're staying in a lovely Thai style bungalow on the river which is pretty cute. Planning to stay here for a couple of days as we've been on the move every day since Thurs, and it's pretty exhausting.
The scenery on the bus drive up from Phitsanulok – very nice. It's flat one side with paddy fields and people standing waist deep in the water. Mountains on the other side.
Had a watering stop in typical Thai style-sit on the floor restaurant place with your legs dangling down the outside
Not so many tourists - so finding places to eat where we could make ourselves understood was a challenge, and we wound up having chicken curry for breakfast this morning!
22 November
Now in Lop Buri - temple ruins (surprise surprise), an ex-palace,
and about a million monkeys on the streets!
We're stinking after our cattle class train journey today.
Heading up to Sukothai the day after tomorrow (via another
stop), which used to be the capital city, so that should be cool.
20 November
Took a river boat bus (it cost 5 baht!) There are about 65
to the pound, so I can't even translate it!)
Went to the Temple in the Royal Palace which was pretty awesome,
it's huge, and very gold! Very intricately decorated. Very impressive, but
to be honest, they are everywhere
Already found our favourite bar - it's literally just around
the corner, but as soon as you get off the Khao San road tourists seem to
evaporate! Full of locals and so cheap (dinner was about a pound each!). We
decided to avoid the stall selling deep fried bugs (honestly!)
19 November
Been out to Thonburi which made me chuckle
Also to one of the 400 temples in Bangkok
Bangkok isn't as bad as I had been led to believe, but it is v.v.v.v.v hot and humid